NATIVE PLANTS, THE "NATURAL" BUSINESS FOR YOU
 

Copyright 1994 by Home Business Publications

This is a home business that many might consider a "sleeper". Its potential is so obvious that most people would never think of it! Although most nurseries carry some native trees, shrubs and flowers, they seldom feature them. They have a lot of money invested in hybrids and exotics and their suppliers never mention natives (for good reason).

Most of today's nurseries place more emphasis on the newer hybrids. These often have more favorable traits (some of which only help growers) and are all the nurseries can buy in season in "ready to sell" containers. As long as people buy them, there is more profit and less work.

Many people (nurserymen included) tend to think of native plants as "old hat." Notice that almost every nursery carries plants that do not thrive in their area. The question seems to be not how well they do but how well they sell.

On the other hand, more and more people are finding that plants native to their area are more durable, easier to grow, more tolerant of insects and climate and fit in better with the natural landscape. After all, they have survived here for years while others didn't.

Not all of those wonder hybrids live up to their press, especially in areas with climates and soil conditions different than the growers.

Few of them ever look anywhere as nice in your yard or flower bed as they did in the nursery (and pictures).

Hybrids are often expensive and frequently highly susceptible to local pests because they have not had time to build natural resistance or immunity of environmental perils. Sometimes these "exotic" hybrids have unusual side effects.

For example, one "super-fast growing" tree that is commonly seen in ads and touted as growing "twenty feet in a single season" has a terrible odor. In some regions it is called stink tree!

Hybrids are not necessarily adaptable to all areas. A plant that thrives in Minnesota may barely survive in Alabama, even with the best of care. However, it is sold in Alabama with a picture of how well its cousin looks in Minnesota.

The average person has neither the time nor the expertise (or patience) to take care of plants that require even a little extra care. They plant the tree or shrub, water it when they have time and perhaps throw on a little fertilizer they bought at the supermarket. Then, they wonder why the "darn thing died."

After several unsuccessful tries with the "exotic" and quite a few dollars wasted, many people are ready to turn to more practical plants. They want plants they KNOW will do well in their area: NATIVE PLANTS.

Their biggest problem with native plants seems to be finding good quality, healthy plants and reliable information on how to care for them. This is where YOU come in

The first step in preparing for a native plant business is to determine just which plants are native to your area. Next, you need to isolate the desirable ones - those you want to concentrate on. Some you will be able to find easily (just look around!).

Others may have died out due to "civilization," so you might have to dig a little. Start with the county agent and university agriculture departments and spend some time in the public library. Check on garden societies that may have some of the information you need (such as wildflowers). As you accumulate potential products, make notes of their scientific names, history and folklore. This information will prove invaluable later on.

The scientific or botanical names are necessary to help you sort your plants into categories (families) and identify specific plants because only these names are constant. The problem with common names is that any one plant may have many different names and the same common name may apply to totally different plants in different locales.

There are about fifteen varieties of dock (also called sorrel) and only some have recognized common names. Each known variety, however, has its own scientific name. For example, Rumex Patientia has two common names (Spinach dock and Herb patience) while its cousin Rumex occidentalis does not list a common name at all.

The scientific names, by the way, are the ones you use to look up information on plants. It is not necessary to remember a lot of these names, only to know where to find them so you can study the right plant when you want to!

Besides, you only have to worry about the plants you handle anyway. However, you will automatically learn a little about the plant's family when you research it.

One of the reasons native plants have been mundane to some of us and hybrids "exciting" is that we have allowed ourselves to become immune to the beauty of what we already have.

We take native pants for granted. Who would give a second thought to a castor bean plant for example? Their flowers are drab; seeds inedible (poisonous) and they die each year and leave a mess for us to clean up. When you do a little research on this plant, however, it becomes more interesting.

Aside from their products (castor oil, medicines) castor bean plants are considered repellants for flies and mosquitoes above ground; moles and gophers beneath the surface. They provide fast shade and require almost no care. If the seed pods are undesired, simply clip off the spikes as they appear.

Most of us know the seeds are used to make castor oil (maybe our memory of that is all too vivid) but few of us know that this plant belongs to the Euphorbia family and that Euphorbus was one of King Juba's physicians!

Around 50 BC, Juba was the king of Mauretania (not Mauritania of today), an ancient country of North Africa and part of the Carthaginian empire. Nor do many realize that the castor bean's specie name (Rinicus) means "tick", which the seeds resemble or that it is a unique species with variables (not different varieties). Or, that it comes from Africa and was first taken to Europe (England) in 1590.

There is much more interesting information about this "dull and drab" native plant but then so is there for almost any native plant!

Once you learn how, it takes only a few minutes to look up and record information (like the castor bean) about almost any plant.

This type of information, presented tastefully, can transform a lackluster, ordinary (therefore, low value) specimen into something ALIVE and INTERESTING. This is the SECRET to SELLING NATIVE PLANTS!

As soon as you select the plants you want to grow and market, start accumulating information about each of them. Do this while your plants are growing to selling size.

Write a short "bio" on each plant and have little folders that can be attached to each plant you display. To save money have several printed on a single sheet of paper (use heavy, colored paper if you can afford it).

For example, you could get fourteen 2" x 4" pieces (fold to 2" x 2") on a legal size sheet of paper. Type your 14 folders onto a master and make copies as you need them! You can also type 4" x 8" folders and have them reduced by the copier.

This would allow twice as much information in the same space. And, you can add illustrations (drawings or clip-art) and your logo on the other side. Each "folder" should tell a little about the plant (make it sound interesting!) and its care (make it sound simple). You will find that people will be interested in your little "bios" and will buy them much faster once they become "acquainted" with them.

Tip: get a can of spray fixative from an art store (Grumbacher Tuffilm is one) and coat your folders to help keep them fresh and dry.

One way to prepare yourself for the business of native plants is to consider the alternatives from the customer's standpoint. Of course, they could probably find some native plants on their own. To do this, they would probably have to drive out into the country, find a specimen and dig it up (which may be illegal).

They take a chance on the plant being diseased or insect infested and may or may not know how to make sure it lives after transplanting.

If there is time that same day, they drive back home, dig a hole and stick it in. Otherwise, they can choose a healthy plant in just the right size and shape from your selection, already potted and with full instructions.

There is no hurry to replant and no stickers. The customer will probably enjoy your plant more because it has a personality. From your folders, they know all about it and can tell their friends some of its plant lore. It isn't "just another plant."

Specific plants, other than examples, are not suggested here for two very good reasons. First, native plants are different in every area and second, because there are virtually no limitations. Your native plants can be wildflowers, trees, herbs, shrubs, ferns or any combination.

You can specialize in seeds, cuttings, root starts, young or mature specimens in pots, to be dug up and replanted or packaged for spring planting.

Your choice might be influenced by the size of your lot or farm, your equipment and the availability of a greenhouse or display area. Of course local growing conditions and your own personal preferences are also major considerations.

Your collection of native plants will also be influenced by the local market although you have some control over that. Remember the cabbage patch dolls? Their marketing system took an extreme angle: adoption, deliberate shortages to create buyer "panic" (and lots of free publicity) and very high ("exclusive") prices.

Their system vividly demonstrates how marketing can create a difference between a doll and a doll!

Your info folders should contain your name and/or logo, the plant's botanical and common names, its habitat (shade, sun; wet, dry; clay, sand), properties (size, when it blooms), care (water, fertilizer, pruning) any special pests or diseases to watch for (aphids, wilt), and of course, as much interesting plant lore as possible.

Tell your customers as much as you can (verbally and in the folders) except propagation. Don't withhold this information (it would not help your reputation); just don't volunteer it. Why encourage your customers to start their own when they can buy from you?

In most cases a license is needed for either wholesaling or retailing. The cost is about $50 and an inspection is usually required to make sure your growing area is not infected or infested.

When you apply for a license, be sure to look over your crop and take care of any problems before the inspector arrives. Get rid of plants that are diseased, trim off leaves that show mildew or have been chewed on. You may also need a tax permit and Phyto (Greek for plant) health permit if you send plants through the mail.

There may also be a tax number and/or city license required, depending on where you live and how official your business is. If your business is operated only by your immediate family, you qualify as a single proprietorship and can simply keep records of expenses and income in a single entry ledger.

The native plant business can be interesting, profitable and personally rewarding. Moreover, it can be operated on a part-time basis.

It can be started in your spare time and can grow into a full fledged business if you are willing to put forth the mental (research) and physical (plant care) effort. If your business does grow, it will assume a real value over and above your plant inventory.

This means you can make two profits: one from operating your business and another when you sell out! Fortunately this is the type of business that many people don't consider work - it is fun!

HOW TO SUCCEED IN THE RETAIL PLANT BUSINESS
 

Copyright 1994 by Home Business Publications

This is the business of buying bedding and other plants from wholes nurseries - displaying and caring for them, then retailing them for approximately double your investment.

Operating a retail nursery outlet does not require a controlled atmosphere greenhouse or the detailed knowledge necessary to successfully grow commercial plants from seed. It does require a place to store and protect the plants from the elements, and a way to "showcase" them for your customer. A retail nursery outlet is usually a seasonal operation - it handles plants that are ready to sell, rather than those that must be raised for market or cared for over winter.

If zoning permits, your display area or "store" can be in your yard (a temporary building, small shade house or even part of the garage) - or it can be on a lot down the street, a stand along the highway, a stall at a flea market or fair, or a trailer. If you like plants, are good with them and feel there is a market in your area, this may be for you!

The first step will be to secure your retail location, which will influence what type and how much stock you can carry at any one time. Once that is done, get a tax permit, city license (if necessary), register your "company name" with the city or county clerk's office (if other than your personal name), and apply for a nursery license.

This involves a physical inspection of your shop or nursery and possible future spot checks to make sure you control pests and disease. If your pest and/or disease problem is bad enough to keep you from getting a license, it is also bad enough to keep you from making any profit. The total cost for licenses and permits seldom reaches $100 per year.

Scout the plant wholesalers in your area (start in the yellow pages). Visit those that have the things you are interested in and get acquainted with them. Tell the what you want to do - most will help you all they can. Only the very large growers are ordinarily "too busy", but these generally only sell in very large quantities anyway.

Get price lists for plants and accessories such as potting soil, fertilizer and pesticides (those you can legally handle in your state). Then, start finding out what grows best in your area and what people are likely to buy (and when). For example, tomato and pepper plants will normally sell quite well in the early spring, and fairly well in the fall - but not so well in July; mums sell best in the fall, pansies in very early spring and late fall.

Experiment with different types of plants and accessories in the beginning - then gradually increase your stock and orders for things that do well. If you have a good market for potting soil, consider buying large loads and mixing your own (an old cement mixer makes a soil mixer).

If you have lots of calls for pesticides and cannot handle poisons, try organic products and take orders for ladybugs and praying mantis. During your first season, you should be able to do pretty well. Judge your market. One way to make sure is to "chart" your sales so you can review the record to see, for example, how many of what you sold during the weeks before Mothers Day and Easter.

If your first season is normal, you will have sold out of some things fast and had left-overs in others. But the next time, you will have a better idea of what to expect, and can plan for more sales and fewer left-overs that have to be put on "special".

Remember that just because a flower looks good to you does not mean it will thrive in your climate, or that others will like it as well as you. Two excellent sources of information about plants and culture in your particular area are your state university and county agricultural agent. They can provide you with detailed information on varieties of vegetables, flowers and shrubs that do best in your climate even which ones to plant in the spring and fall. They also will have data on potting mediums, light and moisture requirements, pest and disease control plus particulars about soil conditions. In your particular area that may need to be corrected for best plant results.

These sources can also advise you on native plants that you might want to check into. They, along with your suppliers, can advise you when to order plants, how to best care for them, and any special problems to watch out for. This is not to say, however, that you should rely solely on these sources for your education as you progress in your business.

Although it isn't necessary to be a plant expert, it is very important to do a little studying about the plants you offer for sale. In most cases, you will need to find out the scientific (botanical) name in order to pinpoint exact which variety you have. Your suppliers should provide you with these names or you can look them up in the library. It will be to your advantage to take few notes - where the plant came from, any historical information of note, what it is related to, as well as its care and use. A good rule of thumb is that the more expensive the plant, the more you should know about it. Subscribe to one or two good nursery magazines that cover plants you handle. If you have a genuine interest in your business and plants and do any amount of "homework", in no time you (and your friends) will be amazed at your expertise!

A general rule for pricing retail plants is double wholesale, unless you shift (move to the next larger sized pot) them. Six packs that sell for a dollar a pack will bring 25 - 50 cents each in 4" pots ($1.50 to $3 for the same plants). They are larger plants by then and you have taken care of them for several days, so they are actually worth more.

Plants that do not sell while bedding size can usually be "salvaged" to larger pots or combined 3 or 4 each into hanging baskets or made into arrangements with different plants. Plant combinations are excellent sellers for some businesses: to levels of plants, several like or similar (color variations) in a group or contrasting species arranged in tasteful living bouquets.

These can also be enhanced with basket or holiday wrappings, available from nursery suppliers. Perennials often increase in value with size and age - some varieties of cactus and euphorbia become quite valuable as they increase in size.

Many plants are worth more when they are larger because they are sturdier, more striking in appearance (ready for immediate customer display), will bloom or fruit earlier, and because the nursery has more time and care invested In them. The objective in this business is turnover - to buy and sell as fast as possible. But, if you take care of your "charges" properly, things that don't sell need not be a loss.

Care of your plants that are on display is extremely important. You can expect the best price and most sales ONLY if you have the best looking plants! Pinch off scraggly growth, unsightly leaves and wilted blooms; remove dead branches and weeds and mist (those that need it) often. Feed daily, and water every hour if necessary when on display. Usually, once or twice a day is sufficient - this advice is included to make sure you understand that a wilted plant (even one) makes your operation look less than its best!

Invest in a syphon feeder and misting nozzle (about $15 for both), so you can feed your plants with liquid fertilizer as you water them. Use the misting nozzle to keep your plants moist and fresh on hot days. Be alert for signs of insects and plant disease. Remove any plant immediately that looks "sick". and keep it out of sight until it recovers.

You might worry that the local chain store is pretty tough competition - and it could be for one or two plants (their loss leaders). But, by and large, chain stores do not offer quality plants.

Normally they buy in bulk from large wholesale nurseries who supply stores all over the state or country with the same plants. These stores usually "detail" someone to take care of them - someone that is not especially knowledgeable in the care of plants.

One store, for example watered their geraniums daily and kept them in total shade daily - while their hanging baskets of begonias were out in the hot sun. As you might guess, the geraniums suffered from over-watering and lack of sun and the begonias wilted from the heat!

Most stores that handle seasonal pants simply assign a clerk the additional duty of taking care of the plants. These stores can actually HELP your sales, because it is not difficult for someone who knows what they are doing to have much nicer looking plants. Unless your are near a very unusual chain store, you will probably not have to worry about them as competition - they will get only customers who want cheap plants.

Your initial "store" can be a building, trailer or framework covered with shadecloth, and perhaps removable clear plastic to protect the plants from the night chill (if applicable) or heavy rains. Adding woven wire to the sides can improve security.

One idea is to use a quonset style or square frame of galvanized steel, strong PVC plastic or treated wood (non-treated will rot fast) and cover it with shade cloth and 5 mil clear plastic. Tables can be made from scrap lumber and pallets. Be sure to paint or waterproof the wood, especially that which touches the ground. Old rugs or hall runners make great ground covers. Don't be afraid to wet down the rugs when watering your plants - they help maintain the moisture in your display room, and if they deteriorate, so what?

The cheapest shade room can be built from landscape timbers set about 18" deep and 8' apart. Connect the timbers with 8' treated 2 by 4's and if a pitch is desired, use a row of 12" treated 4 x 4's down the center. Shade cloth stretched over the top and sides and a screen door makes an insect proof, wind and sun protected display area.

Adding woven wire to the outside makes it relatively secure and 5 or 6 mil plastic film on the top (which you roll up when not needed) will make a fairly good display nursery display shop for most areas. Add a sign, and some lights (if you are open after dark), and you are ready for business!

Once you have your nursery license and have established wholesale accounts, you will discover many possible sidelines or additional products. For example, if there is a good market for compost in your area and you have a place to store it, consider ordering a large truckload at a time. Then, design a 3' x 3' plywood box that is open at the top and bottom to measure one cubic yard and sell the compost by the yard.

The customer places the "yard box" in his empty pick-up truck, fills it, lifts off the box, and has exactly one cubic yard of compost. You should be able to at least double your money on compost, much more if you bag and sell it that way.

Similarly, if you are fortunate enough to find a market for a particular plant, such as Chinese Tallow trees (for developers), make arrangements to buy seedlings (better still, start your own) and plant them in an out of the way place. If the trees are native to your area, they will require no special care - just time to grow to selling size. Then, dig them up and sell them bare-rooted or in 1 to 5 gallon pots or cans.

In the event of an unexpected frost, a "store" can be covered with plastic film (or a large tarpaulin) and warmed with a temporary heater (or clip-on lights). However this procedure is expensive and can be dangerous. It is recommended only for "save the crop" emergencies. In cooler climates, it may be necessary to use two-ply plastic covering for a measure of insulation. Some growers use a fine water sprayed misting to prevent frost damage on small plants (especially ferns) . If this method is used be sure to cover electrical outlets and electrical equipment.

Plastic film (5 to 6 mil thick) usually lasts about a year and is not expensive. A better (greenhouse) quality is more expensive, but lasts longer. Shade cloth runs about 8 to 15 cents per square foot and last 5 to 10 years. A 20 ft square, 6 ft high shade house would require about 850 square feet of shade cloth ($68 - $127).

A structure started with plastic film can later be covered with white or clear corrugated plastic, which lasts much longer. The different grades of corrugated plastic usually equate to about how long they will last (1 or 2 years to over 10 for a good grade (and price) of greenhouse siding. When using permanent (corrugated) plastic, keep some shadecloth to apply for hot spells and to cover areas that house shade loving plants. You can also use shade cloth for screens.

Your plant resale business should be advertised constantly when you are open. Try contracting for a small box type ad that you can change copy weekly or monthly so you can have a different "special" each week.

Depending on your "store" location, a sign that can be read by people driving by is highly recommended, as is a sign on your car or truck. Magnetic signs are good for a seasonal business, because you can remove them during the off-season. Also, changeable letter signs are good - reader boards with 2" letters, all the way to outside signs with 8" changeable letters can be used to spell out different messages and specials that help attract attention.

One of your signs should list your hours of operation (put them in your ad if there's room). Invest in some printed self-stick tags for your pots - with your name and room to put the plant name and price. Business cards an stationery are nice, but a little lower on the priority list.

This type of business is somewhat demanding in that your plants must be cared for and you should be open as much as possible during the "season", but it has advantages that many other businesses do not:

- It can be closed during slow seasons.

- Expanding or specializing requires little additional effort.

- Plants that don't sell can often be re-potted and sold for a high price.

- The initial investment is relatively low.

- Stock (and cash) turnover is rapid.

- Pleasant working conditions.

- Customers buy because they like the products.

- You can plant the "left-overs" in your own yard!

-Stock (and cash) turnover is rapid.

- Customers buy because they like the products.

Running a retail nursery outlet essentially involves driving to a wholesaler, buying a few flats of tomatoes and petunias for $7 each, bringing them back and arranging them in your shop, and selling them for $14 (or more) per flat.

You can also order plants from larger, further away nurseries if the price is right and you don't have to buy too many at a time. Any plants that don't sell today are watered and fed for tomorrow. If they don't sell in a few days, they are shifted to larger pots or into baskets or arrangements and the price increased.

As you grow and prosper, you might want to consider investing ($5,000 or so) in a large commercial 20" x 90" greenhouse complete with automatic watering and temperature control systems. But, of course you will no longer be a beginner then - you will be a professional and know exactly what you are doing!

TREE FARMING: BIG TIME REWARDS FOR TIME EFFORTS
 

Copyright 1994 by Home Business Publications

Tree farming is a business with several advantages: it can be started for literally nothing; it takes very little space (initially) and requires comparatively little time and effort! The major disadvantage is that it takes a year or two to start paying dividends.

The easiest way to start a tree farm is to harvest a crop of seeds from trees that do well in your area. To start Chinese tallows for example, simply gather a supply of the little white seeds in the fall, store them in a clean dry place over winter and plant them in early spring.

They can be planted in a single flat, individually in small pots, or straight into the ground. Using small (1"- 2") pots takes a little more care as they tend to dry out if not checked daily, but the ones that don't germinate can be simply re-seeded and set aside for the "next crop."

Plants started in small pots are easily transplanted. If you plant the seeds in a flat or the ground, they will need to be thinned or re-potted to make room for good root systems - either a foot apart in the ground or into one gallon pots by the time they are 18" high, which should be towards the end of the first year.

By the end of the second year, your trees should be 3' - 4' high - ready to market for the coming Spring. Those that don't sell should be 5' - 6' for the next season and qualify for a higher price.

Chinese tallow trees are not big money-makers (they should retail for $5 to $10 apiece, depending on their size and your location), but considering that you might have 10 minutes of work and 15 cents in money invested in each tree, the profit margin isn't bad!

Most native trees can be grown in a similar fashion. The secret is to make sure you choose varieties that thrive in your area. If you live in the south and try to grow poplars, your expenses will be overbearing and sales will suffer after people discover they don't do well.

Gather seeds from healthy, nice looking specimens to avoid the possibility of inherited defects. Clean (remove dirt and any pests) and store them in a place where they will not mildew or be subjected to insect infestation.

If insects are a possibility, sprinkle some 5% diasinon powder (bugs that walk through this get sick - fast!). Then, just rest until spring. As soon as the danger of frost is over, plant your seeds.

The suggested method is to plant them one inch pots or a homemade flat filled with half vermiculite and half commercial potting soil because most ordinary soil contains bacteria that can attack young seedlings before they really get started. There is no need to fertilize at this stage.

All your seeds need is light (preferably, sunlight), continued moisture and warmth. If you planted them in a flat you won't have any vacant pots for those that don't germinate, but you should "shift" (transplant) them as soon as they have two fully developed pairs of leaves.

This means digging them up ever so gently and transplanting them one by one into 3 or 4" pots, where you can start mild fertilization (remember, they are just babies!).

They can stay there until they are 6 - 8 inches high, or until you can see any roots at the bottom of the pot (when they need to be shifted again - into 6 pots).

Potted plants in general don't do well in either too small OR too large pots. If their root system is a little large, they can go directly into gallon pots, where they can stay until they outgrow them (usually, at two years).

Trees that reach 5-4 feet should be re-potted to 2 gallon pots, and into 5 gallon pots when they are about 10 feet high. As the trees grow, they not only need more room for their root systems, they also need more ballast!

At any point after reaching the second set of leaves, your home grown seedling trees can be put into the ground rather than into pots. This system involves less care but does mean that you have to dig them up to sell them The ideal way to handle trees that are grown in the ground is to dig them up in winter (after the leaves are gone) and put them into the proper sized containers for selling the next season.

By spring, they will have acclimated to the pots and look their best for market. Some growers dig up trees and transplant them just before selling them, or sell bare root plants - and the survival rate suffers because the trees must endure the shock of two transplants rather than just one, plus less than ideal planting procedures on the part of most buyers.

For trees in the ground, it is very easy to "rig" a system of watering and feeding since they are grouped together.

The main ingredients are a liquid fertilizer siphon (about $10). some black 1/2 or 3/4" pipe, a covered bucket and some garden hose to a faucet. Place a solution of water soluble fertilizer (e.g., Peters, Miracle Grow) in a covered bucket near the faucet.

Connect the syphon to the faucet and put the input tube in the bucket of fertilizer solution (follow the package directions). Connect the hose to the syphon (it has a hose connection) and connect the hose to your black pipe, which runs the length of your "farm" and has perforations (made with an ice pick) for the water to escape.

Now, all you need to do is turn on the water once a week or so for several hours, and wait until your trees are ready to market! You can use a soaker hose instead of the black pipe - it just costs more, and if you are busy (or just lazy), you can water and fertilize with a timer.

The sprouting process can be speeded up considerably by using a hotbed or greenhouse. Seedlings react to warmer soil and longer days, and are easy to fool (force) by creating the environment they need to sprout.

You can easily fashion a hotbed with glass or plastic - or simply cover your flats with glass or clear plastic and put them in the sun. Bring them in at night if it is cold (especially if there is a freeze).

You can "fake" warming soil and longer days with the hothouse and fluorescent lights placed a few inches above your flats. This procedure can speed up your planting process considerably (depending on your location) - which means your trees can grow larger, sooner.

Some trees can be started from cuttings or layers. Once you have decided on the tree/s you want to "farm", do a little homework in the library to find out the best way to propagate (start) new trees.

Poplars, for example, do well from "hardwood" cuttings. Simply cut established twigs just above a joint (axil), trim off any green (new) growth, dip into root hormone powder and stick into a flat with damp vermiculite (or pearlite).

When the root systems develop, shift them to individual pots or into the ground. This method is much faster than growing from seed. If your variety can be started from cuttings or layers, keep a couple of "mother" trees for your annual supply of cuttings. Layering is simply laying a branch along the ground and covering axils with soil. Wherever it roots, cut it from the parent tree and transplant.

Regardless of which method you use, you must watch for pests - both on the plants, and in the soil. There are all sorts of exotic treatments available from professional nurseries that can cost a lot of money. In most cases, soil pests can be controlled with 5% diasinon or 5% Dursban granules.

Sprinkling either of these every few weeks or so will usually control about any soil borne pets. And, if you re-use potting soils (many nurseries do, but NONE OF THEM ADMIT IT), mix in a tablespoon of these granules to about 5 gallons of soil moisture. This will kill most pests, but it will also kill earthworms which are desirable.

A good rule is: if you see a grub worm or soil gnats, use diasinon; if you see earthworms (even small ones), leave it alone!

Most pests on the plants can be controlled with spray. Although you can spend "big bucks" on spray outfits, few will do much better than a common garden sprayer that you can attach to your garden hose (for trees).

They have little one-cup sprayers now that will just about cover a large greenhouse or perhaps 150 gallon container sized trees.

Note that most chemicals break down within a few days once they are mixed with water, so you should mix a new batch each time you spray. Note that malathion can break down as fast as 15 minutes after it is mixed with city water - even though it retains its smell much longer. Since you are not handling edible plants, you can use a variety of chemicals.

For example, Orthene systemic insect control, which not only kills insects on contact, but enters the plant's system, where it renders the leaves ar stems toxic to many pests.

This type control should NEVER be used on any plant that produces edible fruit (like a walnut). Effective, commonly used non-systemic sprays include malathion, sevin and diasinon.

There is one CARDINAL RULE when handling any type of poison spray: READ THE LABEL. If you aren't sure about the mixture, ASK SOMEONE WHO KNOWS. These chemicals are poisons and should ALWAYS be treated as such.

As an alternative to poisons, there are many brands and types of organic pest controls. Most of them are not as effective as the chemicals mentioned above and some cost a good deal more - which is why they aren't used a much.

If you have a controlled area (greenhouse or shade house) it may be wise to buy lady bugs and/or praying mantis (available from most large nursery suppliers). These "good bugs" are very effective, but tend to wander off when used in an outside environment.

Although the example used here is Chinese tallow, the same general procedures apply to most any tree (though some grow much faster than others). Your "free" seeds can come from any tree that grows in your area - oak, pine, china berry, poplar, etc.

It is advisable to stick to those that do well in your area because they are easier to raise, and because they will do well for your customers. Of course you can also order seeds from nursery supply houses - or buy started plants, which would relieve you of having to grow them from seed.

In some climates, this may be a major consideration. There are other propagating and tree culture techniques that you can learn as you progress, and as the need arises.

Examples are air layering, grafting or budding, and specialized pruning - but these are more specialized techniques that you can learn, but aren't necessary to get started in the business of tree farming.

If you retail the trees yourself, people will ask questions about them: what family they belong to, how big they will get, what pests to watch for, and your advice on how to plant and care for them.

For this reason, it would be a very good idea to learn something about your trees. If you don't have any books on the subject, spend a few hours time in the public library and take notes. They will prove invaluable later on when you talk to prospective customers!

For example, the Chinese Tallow belongs to the Euphorbia family, grows to 40' and is impervious to most insects. It is a fast grower but its twigs will die back a few inches each year from frost. Its scientific name is Sapium Sebiferum, and it is native to the southern Unites States, Japan and China.

The hulls from its 3-part seed pods are used in candles, soap and cloth dressing. It is also nice if you can pass on some growing pointers to your customers: things that apply to your particular area.

For example, in dry climates it is a good idea to plant the trees two or three inches below the surrounding surface and leave a "basin" to hold a supply of water so it can sink in where it is needed most. When a customer learns a little about a tree, that customer "knows" the tree, and is much more likely to buy it!

This business requires very little time, effort or investment and can provide a tidy extra income.

Your trees can be retailed right from your "farm"; they can be sold "planted and guaranteed" or they can be wholesaled, depending on the size of your "farm" and your preferences.

Once you get started, it is very easy to establish a cycle where you plant new trees each spring, maintain last year's crop and sell this year's harvest.

One excellent market for your trees is contractors - those that build tract home projects The trees they buy must be inexpensive, fast growing, require little care and be hardy to the area

Other wholesale prospects are retail nurseries (you need a grower's license to sell to them), grocery stores and landscape companies.

To retail, you can set up a little display in your yard or a rented lot; a stand along the highway, or simply advertise the fact that you have trees available.

Three possible problem areas are pests, neglect and over-production. All of these problems are avoidable. Watch your trees for signs of pests and take immediate action when you note signs of pests (bites out of leaves, eggs, aphids, or worms).

If they need water fertilizer or protection from the wind, take necessary actions to protect your investment. If you have trees that don't sell when ready, simply shift them to larger containers and raise the price the next year.

Most trees can be container grown for years - and the larger they get, the more they are worth. So, if you don't sell them this year, there is always tomorrow!